Perfumer
Yuri Gutsatz, a Russian-born perfumer, founded Le Jardin Retrouvé in 1975, a year before L’Artisan Parfumeur came along. It’s often called the first niche house, and his perfumes, Cuir de Russie and Rose Trocadéro among them, are being made again today.
He was born in St Petersburg in 1914, moved to Berlin as a child and later reached Paris, where he went to work for Parfums de Mury. After the Second World War Louis Amic hired him at Roure in Grasse, and he stayed for decades. He was also one of the founders of the Osmothèque, the perfume archive. He died in Paris in 2005.
He made classic French perfumes with clear themes and good natural ingredients. Most of them are named after their main ingredient, such as rose, jasmine, tuberose or verbena. Cuir de Russie smells of leather, violet and smoky juniper, and Oriental Sans Souci is a warm oriental from 1963. When the house was revived after his death, the perfumer Maxence Moutte remade his perfumes as faithfully as he could.
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